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Do you want a complete change of scenery? Discover French destinations that transport you to the other side of the world, all the while staying in the Auvergne-Rhône-Alpes ! Located in the southeastern part of the Massif Central, Velay is an old French province bordered by the Allier Valley to the west and the Loire and Rhône watersheds to the east. This medium-altitude mountainous region features landscapes shaped by volcanic activity. Join us on a journey through stunning volcanic landscapes and unique geological formations, true wonders of nature. Let’s explore the Auvergne together and enjoy two refreshing walks: one to the lac Bleu (Blue Lake) and another to the cascade de la Beaume (Beaume Waterfall).

Map of the Auvergne department showing the location of Lac Bleu and the Beaume waterfall near Le Puy-en-Velay in Haute-Loire. The map also shows key information about hiking trails.

Map of Auvergne in France with the Blue Lake and the Beaume Waterfall hiking trails

 

The Blue Lake: A turquoise gem in the heart of Auvergne

Contemplate the stunning turquoise waters of the Blue Lake, surrounded by nature and just 35 minutes from Le Puy-en-Velay. It’s possible. This gem is a must-visit when exploring the Velay region, and you don’t need to hike for hours to enjoy its beauty. The easiest access to the Blue Lake is via a short straightforward loop 5-minute loop from the nearby parking area. For those interested in a longer adventure, you can embark on the six-mile loop trail (PR475 – Around the Blue Lake) that starts at the same parking area. This hike takes you through the charming village of Montvert, where you can explore various historical sites, including a washhouse, a traditional bread oven, a drinking trough, and an assembly hall featuring a slate roof. Whether you want to relax, meditate, or take a leisurely stroll, the peaceful and unspoiled setting of Lac Bleu offers something for everyone.

Pink spikes in the wind... The flowering stalks of the willow herbs in the foreground contrast with the color of the Blue Lake.

Pink spikes in the wind at the Blue Lake

The Blue Lake, identification facts:

Section Detail
Municipality Champclause, locality known as « Les Balayes »
Département Haute-Loire
Area Auvergne
Naturel area Meygal Massif
Surface area About 98 x 131 feet
Altitude
4,101 feet

 

The captivating colors of the Blue Lake

Depending on the lighting, Lake Bleu can appear in a variety of shades, including azure, emerald, turquoise, and sapphire. People’s opinions differ on the exact color of the water; for some, it looks blue, while others see it as green. Regardless of your perspective, there’s no denying the captivating nature of its unusual hue. The lake’s striking color is attributed to the volcanic rocks, known as phonolite, that line its bottom.

Blue for some and green for others, Blue Lake offers a peaceful and wild setting for resting, meditating, and hiking.

The color of the Blue Lake: Blue for some and green for others.

The waters of the lake are typically frigid and home to fish that should not be disturbed. Fishing and swimming in Blue Lake are strictly prohibited to preserve the ecosystem. As a result, the fish are the only inhabitants allowed to enjoy a « prohibited swim »! Walking around the lake is also not permitted due to the risk of rockfalls. Therefore, the only activity allowed in this serene location is contemplation. This is fortunate, as the sunlight reflecting off the stones in the lake creates stunning shades of blue and green that are a delight for photographers!

« In every walk with nature, one receives far more than he seeks. » (John Muir)

After you have enjoyed the tranquility of the blue water, remember that in the Auvergne, blue is not just a color, but a sensory experience. Once you’ve admired Blue Lake, you may want to indulge in a piece of Bleu d’Auvergne, the famous blue-veined cheese from the region, which is as intense as the color of the lake!

 

The geological history of Lac Bleu: Between volcanoes and quarries

The Blue Lake site is located on an old volcano that is over 12 million years old. However, the lake itself is relatively recent, having resulted from the exploitation of a former lauze quarry active at the beginning of the 20th century. In 1910, while digging deeper to extract phonolite, the quarry workers, known as « lauzers », uncovered a water source that eventually led to the creation of the lake. Once the quarry was abandoned, a small lake formed in the pit, giving the area a unique atmosphere. To continue extracting lauzes, the stonecutters diverted the spring water using a trench and wooden gutters to siphon off water from the bottom of the quarry. The lauze was then transported to its designated sites by horse-drawn carts. Although one could argue that the Blue Lake is a product of human work, shaped by the labor of the « lauzers», it has since been reclaimed by nature and now serves as an excellent example of biodiversity.

The lake's striking color is attributed to the volcanic rocks, known as phonolite, that line its bottom.

The Blue Lake: slab tiles cover the bottom

For centuries, the « lauzers » worked in this quarry to extract lauze and split it into slabs. The traces left by generations of quarry workers are still visible on the rock faces at the site. The “lauze roofers” (not to be confused with “losers”) were responsible for laying the lauze on roofs, overlapping it to prevent rain or snow from penetrating. The old Lauze quarry des Balayes operated for nearly three and a half centuries. This quarry was run as a concession by various families. In addition to extracting lauze, everyone in these families was also a farmer. Quarrying kept families busy, especially in winter when there was less work to do on the farm or in the pastures.

 

Lauze craftsmen: Guardians of ancient know-how

Lauze roofs are essential in the Haute-Loire. Historically, this type of roofing covered the houses on the Mézenc and Meygal plateaus, and today, lauze roofs can still be seen, particularly in the village of Chaudeyrolles. These roofs were popular among the residents of eastern Velay due to their resistance to harsh weather and low temperatures, making them ideal for enduring the cold winters of the Auvergne. However, installing a lauze roof required a sturdy frame capable of supporting the significant weight of the stone slabs. The lauze, which is a heavy and challenging material to work with, demands a high level of expertise for proper installation. A lauze roof can weigh up to 1,100 lbs. per square meter, depending on the thickness of the slab. The durability of lauze roofs is another major advantage; as the saying goes,

« Whoever lays lauze, lays it for 100 years ».

Unfortunately, the activity of the Lauzières des Balayes, like many other quarries in the Haute-Loire, began to decline as tiles gradually replaced lauze in roofing. The activity of the Lauzières des Balayes declined slowly but irrevocably. Over time, the lauze became less appealing due to its weight and cost. Additionally, the « lauze roofers » preferred to use old, pre-cut, and chipped lauze slab to repair roofs, as this was cheaper and saved time. New lauze needed to be recut, especially around the edges, which added to the complexity of the work. Furthermore, the « lauze roofers » were compensated based on the amount of lauze laid, receiving payment by the yard, which further influenced their decisions. The work of laying lauze is time consuming and tedious: a lauze roofer lays about 11 square feet of lauze per day.

 

Phonolite: A stone that sings

The term « lauze » refers to a type of volcanic igneous rock known as phonolite. This rock is typically gray in color, but it can also appear green or sometimes brown. Phonolite is characterized by its ability to break easily into slabs and belongs to the igneous rock family. Its name comes from the distinct sound it produces when struck, such as with a hammer. The name « phonolite » is derived from the Greek words « phōnē », which means « sound », and « lithos », which means « stone ».

Precise movements and a keen ear are essential for « listening » to the phonolite when cutting it into thin slabs. Each hammer blow on the chisel, striking the block of volcanic rock, must be deliberate. The sound produced by the rock changes with each strike. A high-pitched, metallic sound suddenly shifts to a lower tone, indicating that the stone is yielding and opening up. This process requires skilled craftsmanship from the « lauzers » (stonecutters). Interestingly, on some hiking trails paved with phonolite slabs, you can even make the stone « sing » simply by walking on it.

Phonolite is a type of volcanic rock that forms through a specific geological process. It originates from viscous lava that creates various dome shapes, such as Mont Gerbier-de-Jonc in the Haute-Loire. This thick and sticky lava extrudes slowly from deep within the Earth under conditions of low pressure and high temperature, resulting in large rock formations. Phonolites are produced through fractional crystallization in magma chambers. Their light color and low density are due primarily to the presence of minerals like feldspath, nepheline, and alkaline amphiboles. Additionally, the rock’s unique acoustic properties comes from its high silica content and the specific arrangement of its mineral components.

 

The Beaume waterfall: A fascinating geological spectacle

The highlight of a trip to Velay is undoubtedly the Cascade de la Beaume (Beaume waterfall,) located near Le Puy-en-Velay, this stunning cascade is surrounded by the lush Agizoux forest, revealing unique basalt columns. There are several hiking trails leading to the waterfall, allowing you to choose the path that best suits your schedule and the extent of the area you wish to explore. The name « Beaume » is said to come from the Latin word « balma », which means « cave ». Over time, the Ourzie River with its average flow rate of about 360 L/s has sculpted the basalt rock, creating a sudden drop at la Beaume and a natural shelter beneath the waterfall. A geological gem of the Haute-Loire region the waterfall features striking dark rocks set against a vibrant green backdrop, highlighted by the impressive basalt columns.

The Baume waterfall features striking dark rocks set against a vibrant green backdrop, highlighted by the impressive basalt columns.

The Beaume waterfall in a green setting

The Beaume waterfall, information facts :

Section Detail
Municipality Solignac-sur-Loire
Département Haute-Loire
Area Auvergne
Natural area Devès volcanic plateau
Elevation 88.5 feet
Altitude
About 2,953 feet

 

Four paths to a basalt gem: Itineraries to discover the waterfall

Don’t beat around the bush – explore the Beaume waterfall instead! With four different itineraries to choose from, each path offers a unique perspective and adventure. Whether you are an experienced hiker, a casual walker, or a family seeking an accessible trail for children, there is a perfect path for you. Select your route!

  • An easy trail from Solignac-sur-Loire, ideal for a family outing or visitors looking for quick access to the waterfall: 1 mile, 35 minutes.
  • An easy trail from Le Brignon along the Beaume stream: 1.5 mile, 50 minutes.
  • An historic trail from Le Brignon via the Collandre dolmen and the Château de la Beaume: 4 miles, 2 hours 35 minutes
  • A challenging trail from Le Brignon offering breathtaking views of the region: 6 miles, 3 hours 20 minutes.

Whichever path you choose, you will be rewarded with spectacular views of the waterfall and its surroundings.

 

Panoramic views and pastures: A hike in the heart of Mézenc

If you want to explore nature while hiking and enjoying the fresh air, consider taking the historic trail. The walk begins in the middle of pastures, surrounded by hedges and low walls. Take your time to appreciate the stunning panorama of the Mézenc mountain range in the background and the Loire Valley below. The path is lined with Scots pines (Pinus sylvestris,) whose twisted and gnarled trunks have long been used to fuel bread ovens.

A stunning panorama of cultivated fields, the Mézenc mountain range in the background and the Loire Valley below.

A stunning panorama of cultivated fields, the Mézenc mountain range in the background and the Loire Valley below.

The fine grasses grow in tufts that are well-separated from each other; these are fescues. Haystacks are neatly lined up in the harvested fields, while the embankments along the path are covered with common toadflax (Linaria vulgaris.) These yellow flowers, similar to the snapdragons and shaped like open mouths and extended by long spurs, catch the eye. Do I hear the rustling of the grasses stirred by the wind, or is it the toadflax humming in unison?

« What’s wrong with my face?
What’s wrong with my face?
Is there something wrong?
You don’t like it?
Oh, I know you didn’t say anything
It’s your eyes I’m reading
Often a single glance is enough
To stab you worse than a knife
»
(Ma gueule – song by Johnny Hallyday)

The woolly thistle is evocative of a ball of needles covered with a gray-white woolly hairs, resembling tangled spider webs.

The woolly thistle

To spice this hike up a bit… In addition to brambles and rose hips, we discover a pasture blooming with woolly thistle (Cirsium eriophorum.) Meanwhile, other areas show sparse or dry vegetation in the middle of summer. This thistle catches the eye of any passerby. Its appearance is evocative of a ball of needles covered with a gray-white woolly hairs, resembling tangled spider webs. Each “needle” corresponds to the tip of a reddish bract referring to a modified leaf that surrounds and supports the flowers. At the tip of the bract, dark spots begin to appear, which eventually open up to reveal numerous tightly-packed purple flowers. Initially, the flowers form a large globe-shaped head between 0.8 and 2.5 inches in diameter before spreading out into a stunning shaving brush effect. The woolly thistle is a delightful plant and one of my favorites among the many species that contribute to what we call ordinary biodiversity.

 

The Servant Rock: Between myth and reality

Most of the hikers who walk the paths leading to the Beaume waterfall are unaware of the rich history surrounding the area. Just a short distance from the waterfall, legend has it that a massive rock fell and crushed two inhabitants of the village of Agizoux in the 18th century. This rock is believed to come from a wall of dark rocks that are remnants of ancient lava flows.

A stone cross stands on the gigantic Servant Rock. This cross commemorates a dramatic event that took place under the rock approximately three centuries ago.

A stone cross stands on the gigantic Servant Rock

On a large rock known as the « Servant’s Rock », a stone cross was erected in February 2021 to replace an older wooden cross. This cross commemorates a dramatic event that took place under the rock approximately three centuries ago, an event that lacks a written record and is known only through oral tradition. Locals learned about it from their parents and grandparents, who passed down the story through generations. It’s similar to the tale of “the man who saw the man who saw the bear.” An explanatory panel shares the story:

« In the 18th century, although the exact date remains unclear, the Beauzac family, farmers who owned land in the village of Agizoux, would go to the meadow by the waterfall to gather hay for their animals. Their maid and the oxherd, responsible for the oxen, followed them with a second cart along a path that looped along the cliff at that time. Suddenly, a massive rock broke loose and crashed down onto the convoy. The Beauzac family narrowly escaped, but their servants and the pair of oxen were tragically buried beneath the rock. A wooden cross was erected at the site in memory of the victims, but it was in poor condition by the end of the 19th century. A stone cross, crafted by Marc Leyre, was installed on 3 February 2021 ».

 

The Beaume waterfall: A journey through time

As you approach the waterfall, the sounds of the forest gradually fade away, replaced by the intensifying rush of water. This creates a special, almost hypnotic atmosphere. The Beaume Waterfall is the largest in the Haute-Loire department, with an 88.5 foot drop over a cliff adorned with basalt columns. This stunning waterfall flows into the Beaume, a tributary of the famed Loire River. Here we are! Take a moment to enjoy the beauty of the waterfall, feel the refreshing spray on your face, and immerse yourself in the unique atmosphere of this magical place.

The Beaume Waterfall is the largest in the Haute-Loire department, with an 88.5 foot drop over a cliff adorned with basalt columns. This stunning waterfall flows into the Beaume, a tributary of the famed Loire River.

The basalt columns of the Beaume Waterfall

This waterfall is not only a visual delight but also a window into the geological history of the region, which dates back millions of years to a time when the Auvergne was home to active volcanoes. It offers a fascinating way to travel back in time while appreciating the beauty of the present. As the volcanic lava flows cooled, they formed the unique rock formations over which the Ourzie River now flows with its average flow rate of about 360 liters per second. The clearly visible striations on the rock testify to millions of years of erosion that have patiently sculpted this natural wonder, nestled in a lush setting within the heart of the Agizoux forest.

The Beaume waterfall is a natural wonder nestled in a lush setting within the heart of the Agizoux forest.

The Beaume Waterfall: a Natural Wonder of the Agizoux forest.

This forest serves as the green lung of the region, with field elms, century-old oaks, and Scots pines growing side by side. As you stroll along the trail, you might be fortunate enough to catch a glimpse of a deer rushing away faster than its shadow, or see red squirrels venturing onto the branches of the surrounding trees. Be sure to open your ears to listen for the distinctive drumming of a black woodpecker.

 

Stories and legends: When water whispers its secrets…

With a bit of luck, you might hear the Waterfall whispering secrets—or perhaps just the sound of your stomach rumbling after the hike. The Beaume Waterfall is steeped in legend, which adds to its mystical allure. It is said that the waters possess therapeutic properties. Locals would come to bathe in the waterfall, believing it could relieve aching limbs, rheumatism, and other ailments after a quick dip.

The Beaume Waterfall offers a beautiful contrast between the white water and the gray-black basalt... Get closer to the water to hear the waterfall whispering secrets as it trickles down the rock face...

Get closer to the water to hear the waterfall whispering secrets as it trickles down the rock face

One widely known local legend tells of a young goatherd who became the lord of La Beaume. This tale is featured on the tourist information board located along the D54 road.

« In the days of the lords, the daughter of the lords of La Beaume was strolling through the forest. As she crossed La Beaume, she saw an image of the devil reflected in the water. Driven mad by the sight, she was tempted to throw herself into the deep gorges of the Loire. However, the devil she thought she had seen was actually a young goatherd from the castle sent by her parents to look for her. The goatherd managed to save her from drowning; unfortunately, her madness remained. Despite her condition, the goatherd grew fond of her, and the two became inseparable.

One evening, her father mentioned a cure for madness: pouring cold water over the heads of mad people could heal them. The following day, the young goatherd took the girl to the top of the waterfall. To persuade her to jump, he said, “I can see the image of the Virgin Mary at the bottom of the water. Come and see how beautiful she is!” She leaned over, and the goatherd grabbed her, and together they jumped from the top of the cliff. Miraculously, the Virgin Mary slowed their fall. When the goatherd regained consciousness, the girl was no longer mad. Eventually, they were married, and that is how a humble goatherd became the Lord of La Beaume. »

The legend does not tell us if they lived happily ever after or had many children, as is typical in many children’s stories and often heard dozens of times at the end of Walt Disney cartoons.

« Although we are sitting comfortably
The credits are over, you know
Nothing happens in life
Like in Disney stories
Like in Disney stories
Disney stories »
(Bastien Lanza – Disney stories)

At the end of this journey through the heart of Auvergne, Lac Bleu (Blue Lake) and Cascade de la Beaume (Beaume waterfalls) reveal themselves as much more than mere tourist attractions. They are places where nature, history, and culture come together to provide a unique experience for everyone. Whether you are an experienced hiker, a casual walker, a history enthusiast, or simply a traveler searching for beauty and tranquility, you will find something here to fulfill your desires. If these discoveries have sparked your appetite, be sure to try the local culinary specialties, including the famous Bleu d’Auvergne cheese and blueberry tart, made with fruit that is emblematic of the surrounding mountains.

 

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