Do you dream of discovering astonishing landscapes just a short distance from home? If so, head off to discover the hidden gems of the Auvergne-Rhône-Alpes, where vibrant colors and unique shapes sculpted by time come to life. Let yourself be transported on a journey through a land of stunning red earth and unique geological formations—true works of art created by Mother Nature. Join us on our great escape to the Auvergne as we explore two natural wonders: the Corbœuf Ravine and the Valley of Saints.
Location of the Colorados Auvergnats: the Corbœuf ravine and the Valley of Saints!
Welcome to the Badlands! Not the Badlands National Park in South Dakota nor the Bardenas Reales in Navarre, Spain, but the Badlands of Corbœuf, in the Center of France. In the Department of Haute-Loire, the Corbœuf Ravine is a hidden gem nestled in the heart of lush greenery. Visiting the Corbœuf Ravine feels like stepping onto a fantasy film set; it possesses a unique magic that captivates you at first glance! Sometimes nicknamed the “Colorado of Velay.” The Badlands of Corbœuf offer a remarkable sense of isolation just a few kilometers from Le Puy-en-Velay.
The Corbœuf Ravine
The Corbœuf ravine was designated a Sensitive Natural Area in 2018. It covers 65 hectares, encompassing not only the ravines themselves but also a portion of a stone viaduct from an old railway line. While access to the site is prohibited, a balcony-like trail above the ravine provides a scenic route for walking or biking and offers a number of spots to view the ravine.
The Corbœuf Ravine, information facts:
| Section | Detail |
|---|---|
| Municipality | Rosières |
| Département | Haute-Loire |
| Area | Auvergne |
| Naturel area | Plaine de l’Emblavez |
| Surface area | 65 hectares |
| Altitude | 2,100 à 2,600 feet |
A Masterpiece of Mother Nature
Let’s explore this canyon, sculpted by time, where colors dance in the sunlight! Nestled among the trees is the Corbœuf Ravine, a geological wonder dating back 40 million years, when the Emblavez Plain and the Puy Basin were once part of a vast lake. Forty million years of successive collapses, vast expanses of waters, and climate change have shaped this clay canyon, which measures about 1,650 feet in length and is about 130 feet deep.
Nestled among the trees is the Corbœuf Ravine
The subtle touches of green, blue, and ochre which shift with the light and change through the seasons give the site its beauty… These sediments, remnants of a vast ancient body of water, create an extraordinary visual spectacle. Here are some key dates on the geological time scale:
- 40 million years ago: tectonic movements shook the Massif Central, leading to the creation of the Puy-Emblavez basin. During this period, a tropical climate prevailed, and many lakes dried out resulting in fossilized, red soil.
- 35 million years ago: erosion transformed the red, granitic soils into red clay, green clay, and clay-like silt.
- 4 à 15 million years ago: the first domes begin to form, including the Chastel rock. The landscape features sharp ridges and gently rounded shapes, embellished with bulges. The texture of the walls varies from very fine to very coarse, depending on the slopes and geological layers.
A ravine where you can see all the colors of the rainbow
The Corbœuf ravine site is a spectacular example of clay erosion over time. It now resembles a huge curtain. The enchanting Nature of the place comes from the diversity of colors found in the clay. The alternating layers of shimmering colors create landscapes that are both striking and aesthetically pleasing. Unlike the erosion patterns of the Ochres of Roussillon in the Vaucluse in southern France, these landscapes are not the result of vegetation recolonizing old quarries; they are entirely the work of Mother Nature. Indeed, Nature can create surprising wonders!
The Corbœuf Ravine and its colorful contrasts
This clay formation is characterized by perfectly horizontal layers of white, pale yellow, green, and bluish clays, interspersed with a few slightly harder beds that are more resistant to erosion. As we explore a canyon filled with stunning colors reminiscent of the mythical landscapes of the American Badlands, we appreciate the unique geological features around us. For those interested in the specifics, this formation is composed of a mixture of illite, montmorillonite, and kaolinite, which together form the well-known “Velay green clay.” This clay is prized for its unique properties and is extracted and marketed accordingly. Velay clay is notable for being pure, as it contains no quartz or silica and has a high capacity for absorbing odors and water. Due to its high quality, it finds application in various fields, including pet litter, and is often utilized for its absorbent properties. With a pH of 8.5-9 it can effectively correct overly acidic soils. It is also used in animal feed for cattle and poultry as well as an intestinal regulator for pigs. For humans it appears in products such as masks, shampoos, toothpaste, deodorants, and more, it boasts properties that are anti-inflammatory, purifying, odor-absorbing, detoxifying, and anti-aging. Overall, Velay clay is a versatile natural resource with numerous beneficial applications.
Hiking near the ridges: A breathtaking walk
Are you ready to discover this iconic site on foot? Let’s start at Rosières and following the Galoche trail. The path leading to the Corbœuf ravines is an old railway line dating back to 1890: the « La Galoche » railway line! « La Galoche » is the Vellave section of this line and the name may refer to the workers who built the line, who wore shoes called galoshes. Today, you can still see the station and the water tank that was used to supply the train in Rosières.
A steam train carried goods and passengers between Lavoûte-sur-Loire and La Voulte-sur-Rhône until 1968. This old abandoned railway line has now been transformed into a hiking and cycling trail called « Via-Fluvia ». and “Dolce Via” linking the Loire to the Rhône. La Galoche allows visitors to combine geological discovery with a historical walk, while enjoying the surrounding nature. Those who prefer to travel by car can head directly to the hamlet of Chastel, located near the site.
The Corbœuf ravine is a sedimentary mastodon
Taking the discovery trail that circles Corbœuf Ravine is more than a place to stroll, it’s a journey into time. The trail allows you to fully appreciate the scale of this sedimentary formation. The 2.5 miles loop features a slight gain in elevation of 410 feet and takes approximately 1 hour and 15 minutes to complete, making it ideal for families. Just a few hundred meters after the start, the first viaduct offers spectacular views of the ravine, providing the perfect opportunity for your first photo. The walk continues past a series of viewpoints where you can appreciate the stunning panorama. You will feel as if you are wandering through a Clint Eastwood western, surrounded by badlands interspersed with touches of green and ochre. This landscape of small ravines and narrow ridges gives the impression of penetrating the heart of the earth’s strata. This fragile site has been classified as a natural site since June 2013 and is home to unique flora, including summer adonis, martagon lily, field horsetail, and goat’s orchid. The name of this orchid refers to its scent, but don’t worry—you would need to get your nose quite close to the flowers to catch the first whiff! Additionally, the site features messicole plants such as cornflowers and poppies, which add to its ecological interest.
The Valley of the Saints: a journey to the Wild West of Auvergne!
In the heart of the Auvergne Mountains lies a unique natural site known as « the Valley of the Saints ». This remarkable landscape, reminiscent of the Wild West, has been sculpted by the forces of water, frost, and wind erosion. In the town of Boudes, Puy de Dome, the Valley of the Saints stretches out like a living painting, shaped over millions of years. Here, fairy chimneys rise majestically, standing like silent sentinels. The palette of colors, ranging from red ochre to creamy white, evokes distant landscapes, inviting travelers to experience a complete change of scenery. The Valley of Saints covers 27 hectares, and is designated a « Sensitive Natural Areas » (ENS).
The Valley of the Saints, Identification facts:
| Section | Detail |
|---|---|
| Municipality | Boudes |
| Département | Puy-de-Dôme (63) |
| Area | Auvergne |
| Naturel area | Lembron ou Lembronnais |
| Surface area | 27 hectares |
| Altitude | 1,525 to 1,540 feet |
Why the name Colorado Auvergnat?
Just one hour drive from Clermont-Ferrand, in the village of Boudes, begins Auvergne’s Colorado. But why the nickname? The name likely comes from its famous red earth, which bears a resemblance to the colors found in some of the great parks of the American West. But the comparison ends there. In Auvergne, you’ll find geological formations that are only 33 to 100 feet high, while in the State of Colorado in the United States, these formations reach heights of up to 3,200 feet high due to extensive erosion. They say that the people of Auvergne are not stingy but thrifty. They have a Colorado, but on a very small scale!
The Valley of Saints is nicknamed the Auvergne’s Colorado
Fairy chimneys: Sentinels of time
The Valley of the Saints, shaped over thousands of years by volcanic activity, features 23 fairy chimneys that range in height from 5 feet to 33 feet, with an average height of 10 feet. These unique rock formations, which serve as silent witnesses to the Earth’s history, are truly admirable. Their distinctive shapes result from the erosion of various layers of sediment and clay deposits. The geological formations resemble a procession of saints dressed in cassocks, which is why botanist Henri Lecoq gave the valley got its nickname.
The Valley of the Saints features fairy chimneys
These formations date back to the end of the Tertiary period, making this natural site over 60 million years old! The region’s climate has alternated between hot and humid and hot and dry, which has contributed to the development of ferralitic soils—red soils typically found in moist, forested tropical regions and rich in iron and aluminum hydroxides. Additionally, this alternating climate has favored the formation of clay soils that come from the weathering of metamorphic rocks in the bedrock, which is around 400 million years old and coincides with the formation of the Hercynian mountain range.
Unrivalled colors in Auvergne
You will be completely captivated by the vibrant colors of the rocks, the result of thousands of years of natural alchemy —a true spectacle of colors and contrasts. Clay deposits mixed with sandstone and lateritic soils (hardened red tropical soils rich in iron) are layered with lacustrine or sediments from lakes and rivers. The color of the rocks is determined by the minerals they contain. These minerals have undergone various degrees of oxidation or alteration. The highly diverse clay minerals play an essential role in the color palette:
- Red and purple ochres come from a mixture of hematite (iron oxide) and clay. Hematite is the most abundant iron mineral. It can be cut like a gemstone. Its powder is used as a pigment. Red hematite is the most widely used mineral in industry. Its iron content is 69.9%.
- Yellow ochre comes from a mixture of limonite (iron hydroxide) and clay. It colors the soil brown or yellowish. But be careful, with a slight increase in temperature, the soil turns red, and the limonite turns into hematite!
- The greenish color is due to the presence of chlorite, a ferromagnesian hydrated clay mineral resulting from the decomposition of mica. It is a semi-precious stone.
- The creamy white color comes from kaolinite, a white clay mineral. Kaolinite is used in ceramics, particularly in the manufacture of porcelain.
The color palette of the Valley of the Saints
A unique ecosystem
The Valley of the Saints features a unique ecosystem that exudes a southern charm, characterized by warm colors and forests dominated by downy and sessile oaks tree (Quercus petraea), and Scots pines (Pinus sylvestris). Approximately 81% of the area is forested. This forest is relatively young, with a maximum age of around 100 years, having developed after pastoral practices were abandoned.
The Valley of the Saints has warm colors and forests
The Valley of the Saints, located in Lembron, is sheltered from western rainfall by the nearby Cézallier and Monts du Cantal mountain ranges. This sheltered climate is a meteorological phenomenon known as the foehn effect. Here, rainfall is around 550 to 600 mm/year, like in Marseille or Perpignan. This distinctive climate fosters a rich biodiversity within the valley. Botanists can search for rare orchids, while birdwatchers will enjoy spotting majestic birds of prey soaring overhead. The following species have been recorded in the Valley of the Saints:
- 43 species of birds, including the European nightjar (Caprimulgus europaeus), birds of prey including the short-toed eagle (Circaetus gallicus), Red kite (Milvus milvus), and woodpeckers.
- 60 species of butterflies from the 154 found in Puy-de-Dôme, including 8 species of Z… as in zygaena (butterflies with blood-red spots), among which is the Zygaena sarpedon commonly known as Royal Burnet. The Zygaena sarpedon is a moth of the Zygaenidae family. The striking red spots on its forewings are quite eye-catching, especially when the zygaena is feeding. This vivid coloration serves a purpose: it attracts attention, as the famous L’Oréal slogan says, or almost! The red color is a warning signal to insectivorous predators like birds and lizards. This defense mechanism, known as aposematism, is the opposite of camouflage. The bright red color signals that the zygaene is toxic, which is attributed to the presence of cyanide and plant-based alkaloids in its body.
- 19 species of orchids, including the Red helleborine (Cephalanthera rubra,) one of the rarest orchids, Small-leaved helleborine (Epipactis microphylla), and Bee orchid (Ophrys araneola.)
- Eurasian water shrew (Neomys fodiens). It lives near fresh water, hunting aquatic prey. It is the largest and most remarkable of Europe’s shrews, up to 4 inches long.
- The European Stag beetle (Lucanus cervus) is the largest beetle in Europe, with some males growing up to 3 inches in size. This fascinating insect gained fame from the film « Microcosmos », which features a dramatic fight between two male stag beetles. The males are known for their large, antler-like mandibles, which is how they got their name. The female is often referred to as the « great doe ». I can tell you’re already falling for this harmless insect… Interestingly, while you might think the males are the ones to be wary of due to their impressive mandibles, it’s actually the females that pose a greater risk, as their appendages are sharper and can inflict a painful wound. Ouch!
The Discovery Trail of the Valley of Saints
Join us on an adventure exploring the famous Valley of Saints! Let’s start at the village of Boudes, located in the heart of the red lands of Lembron. A 3.5 miles loop (approximately 2 hours) will guide you up the hillside and through a dry forest, which is rumored to hide geological treasures. If you bring your four-legged friend along for the walk, you can also enjoy free yoga classes!
View of the village of Boudes in the Valley of Saints
On either side, you’ll find fields of sunflowers, their bright yellow blooms turning their faces toward the east-southeast. Upon reaching a crossroads with four paths, corresponding to the four cardinal directions, take a moment to turn around and enjoy the view of Boudes and its vineyards. Boudes has approximately fifty hectares of south-facing vineyards, producing Chardonnay white wine, as well as Gamay and Pinot Noir red and rosé wines, all classified as AOC Côtes d’Auvergne.
The Vallon des Fosses in the Valley of the Saints
The Vallon des Fosses is a small fork in the road, but the view makes the detour worthwhile. You will be greeted by a multitude of red clay columns that have been eroded by water and wind. The combination of lush green vegetation, striking red rocks, and a clear blue sky creates a stunning polychromatic effect that captivates all and leaves none indifferent. The shifting colors of the red clay, captivating the eye and inspiring the mind, are reminiscent of the mystical landscapes of the American West.
The Mosses cliffs in the Valley of the Saints
As we continue our walk along the loop, we head towards the Mottes cliffs. These colorful cliffs showcase deposits known as alterites, presenting a stunning palette of colors: red, white, pink, yellow, green, and purple — a whole spectrum of hues. Mother Nature is truly a wonderful artist! It’s a delight for the eyes and perfect for photography, especially when the sun’s rays illuminate the cliffs. At a second observation point, we can admire the Cirque des Mottes and its fairy chimneys. These hooded formations create slender silhouettes that reach heights of over 33 feet, each topped with a basalt « hood ». However, these « hooded ladies » appear a bit disheveled, as most of them have lost their hats.
Le cirque des Mottes et ses cheminées de fées
The excursion concludes at the Roman spring of Bard, characterized by its salty, ferruginous, and gaseous properties. Bard features four springs, with the main one situated in a basin that remained hidden under a landslide for centuries. It was uncovered in 1882 by Michel Augier. During this discovery, a treasure was found at the bottom of the basin: 67 Roman bronze coins, each bearing the images of emperors from the 1st and 3rd centuries AD. The springs have low salinity, measuring 1.39g/l for the saltiest, compared to 11g/l for seawater. This salinity supports the growth of nine halophilic (salt-loving) plant species, including sea milkwort (Glaux maritima,) Blackgrass (Juncus gerardii,) Bessarabian dandelion, European alkali grass (Puccinellia distans,) media sandspurry (Spergularia media,) sea club rush (Bolboschoenus maritimus,) distant-spiked sedge (Carex distans,) narrowleaf trefoil (Lotus tenuis,) and marsh arrowgrass (Triglochin palustris.) In France, halophilic flora is relatively rare and can only be found in Lorraine and Auvergne, both of which are situated some distance from the coast.
The Roman spring of Bard in the Valley of the Saint
Whether you are a hiking enthusiast, a passionate photographer, or simply in search of tranquility, this journey to the heart of Auvergne’s natural wonders is an unforgettable experience. As the Auvergne proverb goes, « France is the Auvergne with something around it » . While exploring Auvergne’s Colorado region, you will not only encounter breathtaking landscapes but also the rich history and soul of this extraordinary area. So, are you ready to embark on an adventure just a short distance from home?
